11/1 Pick Pocket in Training

Kate had her first pickpocket attempt yesterday. The guy was the Artful Dodger in training. We were walking our bikes through a crowded street downtown because Kate’s not comfortable weaving in and out of pedestrians, avoiding cars backing out from the lots on the left and vehicle traffic on the right. Safety is number one priority if you are not comfortable on bike, so I support walking whenever she wants. However, when you walk on a crowded street with a bike, your hands are engaged on the bike and not guarding your pockets. No one picks your pocket when you ride –if they attempt, they’ll have a fat tire over them.

Anyways, a guy brushed by me as I parted the crowd in front of Kate. I did not realize he then purposefully bumped into Kate’s left thigh pocket. It’s a trick pickpockets do to see where you keep your stash. They note if you checked your pocket (or which pocket you checked) after first contact so they know where to target. Once this guy was sure, he returned minutes later, waved a plastic bag in front of Kate’s face and slipped his hand into her pocket. Fortunately he was so clumsy that Kate noticed everything and she slapped his hand, shouted so loud that it scared him off just as I turned around.

We were very lucky.

Another thing I’ve noticed here is that if you are white, young, and female in Lusaka, you get a lot of crap from men on the street. This comes in the form of physical and verbal sexual harassment as well as financial harassment. This really annoys me when I see the guys giving Kate a hard time.

It hasn’t taken us long to work out “best practices” when it comes to the high-traffic, high-risk environments. Whenever we walk our bikes through crowded areas, I make Kate take point so I can watch her and the pedestrian traffic coming our way. We also have rear view mirrors on our bikes to help with awareness. And I have learned to keep my Kryptonite U-Lock at hand to remind unethical Zambians it can be painful to mess with “Muzungus”.

A Constitutional Experience

Yesterday we were riding our bikes to the Embassy and happened to coast into a huge crowd of unrest. Some University of Zambia students informed us that it was the planned protest broadcasted on the news the night before (that I wanted to witness). By a sheer stroke of serendipity, we were here! There were about five thousand people (majority university students and young professionals) chanting against the president, and blocking the streets. Most were friendly. Heavy police presence with their AK47s and tear gas canisters kept order and prevented protestors from marching to the parliament grounds. Although they could have been overwhelmed easily by the uncalculated rebellion of youth.

We talked to some of the students. They were upset at the current president for not spearheading the development of a new constitution (which he had promised) and elections are next year. Apparently there was a lot of fraud in ballot counting at the last election (and yes, Manawasa, the president, is Republican). They know there is a lot of corruption within his party and want him accountable. There has been a new draft constitution submitted and they want the constitution-making process accelerated so it will be adopted before the 2006 elections. It was encouraging to see people so inspired to act on their love for their country. Zambians really are proud of their independence over the last 41 years and genuinely seem to want the country cleaned up. We also witnessed their zeal during the Independence day celebration a week ago. Stimulated with the energy around us, we weaved ourselves deeper (on bikes) into the heart of the crowd.

Thirty yards later, we found people shouting at us, calling us “Muzungu” (“white person”, which I found highly inaccurate for myself) and then grabbing our rear bike racks and pushing us out of the thick crowd. I was worried for a moment, trying to keep track of Kate and being aware of where I was steering. In a couple of seconds and near-accidents, Kate and I were pushed out of the demonstration.

Our protest experience was short lived. But for safety reasons, perhaps for the better. We would have been easy targets for a restless group looking to prove something pointless. Needless to say, we took the longer route to American soil to buy M&Ms at the Commissary –and to let the RSO know we performed another “do not” –again.


11/1/05

African Time

Even being in Lusaka, Zambia’s capital city bustling with energy and swelling with immigrants from the country’s villages (which by the way is causing havoc with city planners), there seems to be a slower pace of life. In everything you do, from getting to point A to B, to bargaining at the market, and simply buying more phone credits, expect to take more time than you anticipate. Service here is friendly, but slow –like watching paint dry.

The “New York minute” does not exist here. It’s more like the “Lusaka hour”. Kate says that in the villages it’s worse. When someone tells you to meet in the morning, it could mean anytime from 7am to 11:59am (even if you both agree to a time). This also applies to train schedules outside of the city. At least in Lusaka, things operate close to the agreed time –often budgeted with a slight delay.

One of the most memorable meetings I had was with the VP of Habitat for Humanity, he came two hours late, then had the gall to ask me for money. Another was at the University of Zambia where Kate was to brief her research assistants. The professor was punctual, one assistant was 30 minutes late, and the other three never showed.

I have to admit though, taxi drivers here have been punctual. I suspect due to the direct financial incentive. Money talks, or in this case, money knows time.

Perhaps the best way to summarize the Zambian concept of time is through a Welsh expatriate that I joined on a Hash* (that started on time). We’ve all heard about GMT. Well, he said in Zambia, it’s called “ZMT”: Zambia Maybe Time.

I will return to the States with the patience of a Saint.

*A Hash is a run through the bush were a trail is laid out by a “Hare” prior to the run with codes that direct Hashers. The Hashers (runners or walkers) have to find the code markings for it leads to the beer at the end. On the trail there are shortcuts that the walkers can take so they can get to the beer about the same time as the runners. Total distance covered ranges from 4 to 8 miles depending on how aggressive a Hasher is in searching for the trail. A lot of chaos, shouting, cuts, and sweat ensue –but beer is a powerful incentive in the African bush. (More on a Hash will be written in another entry).

Home Sweet Home (for the next three months)

Take an image tour of our home till January. We enjoy many comforts that we are accustomed to in our condo in Chicago --with a few improvisations.


Please do come in!


Every morning when we wake up, we find red sand accumulate around the carpet and porch thanks to the winds during the night. The sand is red (rich in iron) and also finds its way into the house. There is endless sweeping, daily.


Make yourself comfortable. As you enter, you will find an "Asian Tiger" theme powered by the couches. Queer Eye would cringe. Note the grills outside the screened window. It is to keep unwanted visitors out.


Speaking of visitors, we have a friendly house guest Kwame the spider. He's on our side because he eats mosquitos.


Speaking of those Malaria carrying bastards, we sleep in a mosquito netted bed. So far, so good. No bites at night (which is when most of the malaria ones come out).


Breakfast is served! Our kitchen provides all the amenities we are used to: microwave, toaster, fridge, sink for washing (I miss our dishwasher) and Cyclops.


This is Cyclops. Our one-coil stove. It takes time to cook a full 12-course Chinese dinner on one burner, but that's why I have a full Weber gas powered grill out back by the pool. Yeah right. Anyways, what was it that Rumsfeld said? "We go to war against our appetite with the burner we have, not the burners we want."


This is our solar powered dryer (we handwash every piece of clothing). Come the rainy season we have to watch out for the punte fly. They lay eggs on damp clothes and when you put them on once dry, the eggs hatch on your skin, get into your body and then you get real sick. The embassy recommends that you either use your electric dryer (???!!!) or (hire someone to) iron EVERY piece of clothing to kill the eggs. Well, the last Fulbrighters never did this and they did not have baby flies hatching out of their skin so this info may be embassy jive to ensure that their staff get houses with electic dryers (and swimming pools and billiard tables and large 4x4s... all also known to cure the punte flies)....


Thank you for visiting. If you really want to come to Africa, check out the "visiting us" link on our blog and email us.

Walk quietly, carry a big stick, and watch your wallet

We had the official U.S. Embassy Security Briefing today. This “lecture” (for it was hardly “brief”) made me think about why Americans are such a big target on foreign soil? In this case, why is there a higher incidence of carjackings, muggings, petty theft, and residential break-ins targeting Americans and not other nationalities? There is an equal amount of British, Canadians, Chinese, Germans, Swedish, and South African citizens here and there aren’t as many security reports on them. Makes you wonder, doesn’t it.

Let me cite the most recent security facts on Lusaka where the Department of State classifies its crime threat as “critical”. Keep in mind as you review this, Zambia is a country of 10 million people, and the crime targets expatriates (where we stick out). This turns out to be a low rate when compared to our vulnerability to crime in Chicago (where we blend in, so in theory should be less likely to be a target –but yet crime is higher). Therefore, in Chicago, you’re more likely to be a victim of your “bling bling” than Zambia. Read on…

Carjackings: Four reported in the last 8 months. Two involved men with AK47s (illegal and cost $100) pulling up and at gunpoint asking the lady driver for all their cash. One car was a single lady driver. In another, the mother had her two young children watching and the Zambians were kind enough to leave her with the car when she asked (so she could get home with the kids). In both these instances, the cars were followed after the Zambians saw them change a lot of US dollars at a foreign exchange bureau. No one was injured. The other carjacking victim was not so lucky. The husband and wife were shot (and died) in a 4x4 on safari (this is considered rare). Finally, the fourth carjacking was textbook, several Zambians feigned vehicle trouble on the side of the road. A group of Americans stopped to help. In the process of getting carjacked, another American stopped thinking some white people had car trouble. The Zambians got a bargain: two cars for the effort of carjacking one, and the Americans had a long walk home.

Muggings/petty theft: Several have been reported in the last three months. No one was injured. Just a calculated pick of the pocket, a purse snatching and the occasional emptying of a car: i.e. after a shopping excursion, Zambians will follow you to the car and wait for you to load it, get in, then before you lock it, open all the doors, and as a team, empty your recent bargains –leaving you and your car empty (but safe). The most impressive happened in broad daylight in the city, with police around, and crowded streets. Four foreigners got into their flashy SUV (a prime target vehicle here); the window was cracked a bit. Before they drove off, a Zambian sneaked their hand in, unlocked the driver side pulled the driver out with a gun, his team got the others out and emptied all their wallets and left in a matter of 32 seconds. A model of efficiency –reminded me of a NASCAR pit stop. Again, every victim was still safe.

After the crime-related warnings, the Regional Security Officer (RSO) briefed on things Americans should NOT do:

• Don’t go to downtown Lusaka (as the recent carjackings and muggings attest).
• Don’t ride bikes on roads (or around the city) due to dangerous drivers.
• Don’t use the mini-buses or public transportation (taxis are O.K.).
• Don’t go to the local markets for fresh produce (it is not safe).

Finally, they warned is that while Zambia is a friend of the U.S. (in fact it is, they do have very good relations), there are small Muslim extremist groups here that support terrorist networks like al Qaeda. The Embassy freaked when they found out and spent a lot of time trying to determine if he was planning an attack on them during his stint here. Fortunately, the answer was negative. He was simply looking for a place to lay low from the heat he was getting from America and U.K

Here is my response to the briefing:

To all the muggings, carjackings, theft etc: Granted, the Zambians are on the lookout for foreign prey. But crime here is different. It is used as a means to an end, not merely for violence. It is different from Angola of South Africa where the criminals have been trained to use a gun from a young age, and actually kill (due to civil strife or prolonged armed conflict). Zambia on the other hand had a rather peaceful transition to independence. There has never been war in this country. Nor do they practice pre-emptive foreign policy. Here, crime is simply used as a way to increase their prosperity. Albeit, an illegal method, but they generally do not intend to hurt their unlucky prey. My theory is that the security here is realistically not equipped to protect all Americans. So they conduct the briefing so THEY feel SECURE.

To the warnings of “do nots”: Unfortunately, we had already done everything they had warned us about in the first six days in Lusaka. Whoops. But come on. They don’t expect us to be teleported from our home to the Embassy? We’re on a Fulbright budget here, not a Dept of State budget, or better still, a corporate budget. We need to use public transportation because it’s cheap, and in some cases efficient to get around. In other cases, the bike is the best way, dangerous, yes –but so is flying on an airplane, or selecting the truest 2x4 off the highest self in Home Depot on tiptoe. I just went around my first major round-about (they have these here instead of traffic lights) yesterday on bike, and it was the most thrilling and nerve-racking experience yet. It’s like seeing your life flash before you four times (yes, at each exit). The main fear of the “do nots” is simply the golden hour rule. Meaning, if you get seriously hurt, you have an hour window to save your life. The RSO said that in Zambia, that care does not exist. You are usually medivac’d to Jo’burg in South Africa for care that is considered “western” standards. My biggest problem with the “do nots” is the fact that Americans in the foreign service, and all Americans visiting for that matter should not isolate themselves from the “locals”. They are ambassadors of the country, and the “do nots” prohibit cultural exchange (which is the mandate of a Fulbright – and hopefully an objective of foreign service).

Finally, the terrorist threat: Yes, we cannot ignore the fact that there is a Muslim extremist group here supporting terrorist activity. For some perspective, do not forget there are more groups in the U.K. and U.S. It was not the threat that worried me, but how it was uncovered. The Embassy found out about the al Qaeda operative through an article in the New York Times AFTER the terrorist was caught by Zambian police at a Zambian/Angola border crossing. It puts a dent in confidence regarding security intelligence when you stumble on this fact. In addition, the RSO didn’t even know where our neighborhood was (home to upper-class Zambians) near the University of Zambia (a major landmark). He claimed that since we did not live in one of the two major expatriate compounds, we were not in a safe neighborhood. As RSO, it seems he should know a lot about the city as it relates to safety and security. What happened to the competent people in the greatest bureaucracy on earth? Did they all become Canadian nationals? (In good humor, the RSO admitted to claiming he is Canadian when traveling outside the Embassy).

To conclude, and answer the question introducing this journal entry: “why is there a higher incidence of carjackings, muggings, petty theft, and residential break-ins targeting Americans and not other nationalities?” Number one reason is Bush’s stellar foreign policy, second the misperception that all white people, especially Americans are affluent, and finally, Americans are told not to “mix” with the locals. The first point, the Embassy can’t do anything about. The second point, the Embassy Public Affairs Service tackles. The third point, the security briefing can resolve.

The result of the third point is that the average Zambian (meaning the middle and lower class, the filthy rich don’t matter) isn’t able to see the true American. The America I know and respect: generous, compassionate, fair, and free. It’s one thing to open your pocket books (that really helps here too) but if one has the opportunity, nothing can take the place of genuine face-to-face communication. America is not a place of “do not”, but a land of can “do”. Why doesn’t the Embassy reach out? Seems like the only Americans that do are the Peace Corp volunteers and the academics (I applaud my wife here). The rest seem to stay in the city and isolate themselves within the expatriate community. They get real good at rugby and keep the local sunscreen market shining.

But what do I know? I’m just a Singaporean paying U.S. taxes and benefiting from the security of the current greatest nation on earth.

I want to Ride my Bicycle. I want to Ride my Bike.

Here in Lusaka, most things are negotiable –and more rewarding after spirited bargaining. Bike purchases are no different. We needed two mountain bikes to get around the city prior to getting our off-road vehicle, and for the bush to go where our 4-WD can’t take us.

After much “qualitative” research during our first two days here, we were off to pursue the golden two-wheeled deal. You’ll find no Treks, Giants, or Specialized bikes here. You’d have to wait for a cold day in hell for a sleek Euro Bianchi, Pinarello, or Orbea. Bikes here are imported from China and India and tend to be rickety human powered machines. I found this out after riding home and noticed a few screws lost, a derailleur slipping loose, handle bars and stem that gradually misaligned and stubborn untrue wheels. Not to worry, two lucky Zambians will get our bikes when our year is done.

We went to several “retailers” to negotiate (a hot and sweaty rooms with bikes literally stacked one on top of the other). None could get low enough. The beauty of the bargain is the ability to walk away. If you can walk, or present the threat of the walk, ball tends to be in your court. Finally we got to a place that got closer. He started at 450,000Kw ($102); we wanted 350,000Kw ($78) per bike. The answer was negative. As we walked away, he called us back and then proposed we meet him after the shop closed 30mins later and he could get us a price from a friend. Sensing he was doing something entrepreneurial, (misrepresenting his bike shop) we negotiated lower and got 300,000Kw ($68) per bike.

Short story, he walked us about 1.5 miles weaving through bootlegged copies of Wedding Crashers, Bambi, Indecent Proposal, Armani belts and dusty electronics. We reached a near-empty compound with boys welcoming us by impersonating their favorite soccer stars with a well-loved ball. We approached a car and out popped out two Chinese gentlemen with none of the grace of Crouching Tiger, but about to show us the hidden dragon when they slid a warehouse storage gate open and we saw bikes piled high missionary style. That’s how I like it, streamline the channel, forget the retailer and middleman and head straight for wholesale. We picked two bikes, paid the Chinese, bought our Zambian friend lunch (gave him money for a cab home and exchanged contacts in the event he could help us with a 4-WD), and rode off into the dry African Sahara sunset.

Gotta love the global economy, capitalism –and the occasional entrepreneurial sales rep.



sean_deluna@yahoo.com

Digging for a Reason

During my second day here, I joined volunteers for an afternoon with Habitat for Humanity. It was a fulfilling experience beyond words; an experience that humbled as well stirred something within. We shovel-dug, set cinderblocks and poured cement for the foundations for what was to become three homes, for three families. No big machines, just human-powered physics with a shovel, ax, and what would be a sore back and blistered hands.

The Habitat model is simple. A family is selected for a house. They pay 500,000Kw ($111) for a down payment. For mortgage, they pay enough for four bags of cement per month for 15 years, so there will be enough for future homes in their neighborhood/community to be built. The square four-room houses cost Habitat approx $4000 to build along the dusty dirt roads (the rest come from donations and labor is typically abundant in Habitat community projects) There is no plumbing in each home, just electricity. Water comes from the local well and must be carried daily to each home. Habitat’s a simple model that has shown great results building communities.

Local families came, dressed in their Sunday best. The three U.S. Marine volunteers took a permanent break after 90 mins of work. We had 2hrs and 30mins left and they found that time more fulfilling checking out the American International School female volunteers. I was disappointed in them being all they could be, especially when compared to the big-hearted Zambians. I was surprised when a man on crutches hopped beside me in the trench and leaned on the walls for support to help me dig. A pregnant woman with a child strapped to her back mixed cement as I loaded and poured wheeled barrows of gravel. A disabled gentleman with a hunchback and a sling filled in blows when my arms were limp from chopping down stubborn tree stumps. I left with a golden film of dirt everywhere and couldn’t be happier. The children applauded those of us that worked as we left. The men gave me a thumbs up. The only clean streak on my body was the wet trail from an eye down the cheek. Nothing motivated me more than speaking and working with the families, yet angered me more than corrupt politicians and foreign aid donors who don’t hold the governments accountable to fair distribution of aid.

Gotta love Jimmy Carter for developing this program. Successful pet projects like this make you wonder about the potential of foreign aid. In the midst of my bitching, I spoke with a USAID (U.S. Agency for International Development) officer, also volunteering, about the current reality; he said that roughly 80% of the millions in U.S. foreign aid go straight to corrupt government pockets and not the people who need them in Africa. He has been traveling to Africa from D.C. during the last five years to tackle the challenge. When the citizens become aware of the problem, Zambia can then get closer to the solution. There is growing awareness –just not critical mass. Yet.

In November, Habitat will build a house in one day. There will be no prime time national T.V. coverage, no spiky hair guy shouting obnoxiously in a microphone, or selfish product placements. There will be no bus to move. Just 150 volunteers, shouting for a family to move in.

I hope to be one of those shouting volunteers.

sean_deluna@yahoo.com

Visa Information

Americans do not need a visa to travel for up to three months in Botswana, Namibia, or South Africa.

Americans DO need a visa for travel to Zambia. Visas can be purchased at the port of entry or in advance. A multiple-entry visa for Zambia may be obtained through the Zambian Embassy in Washington for about $40. If your visit to Zambia will only last one day, a day visa is easy to obtain at border crossings such as the one in Livingstone.

Namibian Embassy in Washington

Botswana's Embassy in Washington

South Africa's Embassy in Washington

Tourism Links

Here are some links for travel to southern Africa:

NAMIBIA:
Namibia Tourism Board

South African Namibia Tourism Site

Namibia Community Based Tourism Association

Hospitality Association of Namibia

Bed & Breakfast Association of Namibia

Namibia Wildlife Resorts


BOTSWANA:
Tourism in Botswana

British Botswana Tourism Site

South African Botswana Tourism Site

ZAMBIA:
Zambia National Tourist Board

SOUTH AFRICA:
South Africa Explored

South African Tourism

LOCATION AND CONTACTS

We are currently living in: WINDHOEK, NAMIBIA
MAILING ADDRESS:
Kathryn de Luna (Fulbrighter)
2310 Lusaka Place
Dulles, VA
20189-2310
USA
PLEASE NOTE: This is a diplomatic address: use first class U.S. domestic postage, send only letter mail with a 2 lbs maximum weight; no packages, subcriptions, etc. 2-4 weeks for delivery:


TELEPHONE NUMBERS:
Namibia: 011-264-813065325 (sean) 011-264-813065324 (kate)

In case the above does not work, try our Zambia numbers:
(US outgoing code) - 260 - 97 - 197 - 495 (Kate)
(US outgoing code) - 260 - 97 - 197 - 496 (Sean)


EMAIL:
sean_deluna@yahoo.com (SEAN)
kathryn-deluna@northwestern.edu (KATE)