Entry #1, 23 October 2005

Well, we made it after over 35 hours of traveling.

We were met at the airport and promptly ushered to the "Diplomatic and VIPs" immigration line... where we didn't have to wait in line because someone from the embassy did it for us! Ah... VIP status- needless to say Sean totally enjoyed that!

We spent our first day 1) sleeping 2) eating 3) meeting with my friend Ropafadzo from my last trip, wbout whom you will surely hear more and 4) sleeping. Our dinner on our first night was at one of the two malls (both very close to us)- it was an Irish pub. The distribution of Irish pubs throughout the world does lead one to conclude that the McDonald's business plan must surely be based on this older restauranteer model. Sean had steak and fries but I am guessing that anyone who knows him already guessed that.

Our second day, we got food in and Sean spent the afternoon with Habitat for Humanity (see his blog journal) and I sorted out some business at school. Then, ah... a three day weekend because Monday October 24 is Zambia's Independence Day (41 years). Needless to say, there have been tons of "traditional" dancing, etc. Picts to follow.

Yesterday, we got bikes. Yes, three days in Africa and Sean already owns two more bikes.

Actually the bike purchase was quite an adventure... we went to a cycle shop and an employee offered to take us to a friend's where we could get bikes for the price we wanted. He said he'd meet us at 1PM when his boss's shop closed. We said yes and went to eat and see town while we waited. But Sean kept acting odder and odder... then he asked if we should buy a knife. He figured the man from the bike shop was out to kill us or kidnap us. The lesson, as we walked away from the bike warehouse mecca (the man had taken us directly to the wholesaler) is that business in Africa is conducted on a 'friend' level where if you don't like a price at a store with fixed prices, you have only to 'befirend' someone who will not kidnap you but rather take you to the establishment of one of their own friends or relatives to get you the product at a better price. The benefit for the person you befriend is a cut of the profits or help from their contact when they are in need of food or transportation. A little different than a system that works on banking your money so you can afford what you need when you need it. In fact the 'befriending' system is far more useful in a country where the currency often collapses (at Independence 41 years ago 1 Kwacha = 1 GBP but now 1 GBP = 7350 Kwacha!) and there are food shortages. That is to say, you can't always depend on money to get what you need so Sean learned that he can take people's offers of help at face value (being prepared to offer help in return, as well!).

Mostly, I've been watching Sean adjust- which has taken very little effort at all. He seems very comfortable and excited to be here- which is a relief for me! Perhaps it is because he is meeting so many people (his cell phone adderss book is far more full than mine!) or perhaps it is that I have done the first 3 loads of laundry. Lest the word "load" confuse you, 1 load = 1 clothesline full of handwashed clothes!!

One odd note. When we were downtown, someone shouted out to Sean "China!" and Sean said that he liked that- that he was not seen as American. I laughed and explained that the guy had said "MuChina" or, "China Man" and suddenly Sean was less impressed. Well, its ok because these shouts blend with those of "Muzungu" or "White person". I guess we don't quite blend in. Although, we did get our bikes for 20% less than most of the Africans we asked for price ranges! And, when we ride our bikes, the shouts change from MuChina! Muzungu! to "Cyclists!" with a big grin and a thumbs up. I guess there is something to be said for taking local transport.

The other local transport is the bus- an efficient cheap system in wich 14 people, a driver, and a conductor cram into a van and pretend that they don't notice that they are sitting on each other. These buses are fun, especially at night when they have lights and loud music- African, country western and 80s are favorite genres. They are also named: "Baba" (father), "Elvis Lives" and "Good for White People" to name a few ironic examples.

See Sean's journal for more...